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Simple mistakes to avoid in photography

The quick way to improve:

…Is undoubtedly to listen to the mistakes that others made. Here are some easy things you can do to improve your photography in leaps and bounds. Getting lots of practice is the first step. The more you shoot the more you will get to know what works and what does not. However, going further than that takes a little diligence. So here are some things to do for quick improvements…

1. Not reading the manual

Get the manual out. Learn a technique from the manual. Then go out and use that technique.

2. Not reading the manual again in six months

Repeat (1) in six months. Using your camera will become easier and your memory will be refreshed.

3. Not making friends

The most fun you can have in photography is with friends. Join a club, find some other camera owners, join a website that shares comments… whatever you do – get people to look at your photos and help you with tips and tricks.

4. The equipment you own

Read “Seven deadly photographic sins” and realise that you should concentrate on learning everything about the equipment you own. Once you are an excellent photographer with your current equipment then consider new stuff, but not before.

5. File resolution

Shoot with the largest file size and highest resolution. If you do not know how to do that consult the manual. This is important. Using tiny files and low resolution will really frustrate your improvement.

6. Not checking the image

Beginners often click away without checking the image. Shoot-and-hope mostly fails. Check your screen, check and check again. Reduce the number of shots you take. Concentrate on composition – make the images you do take higher quality. Read up on “Chimping” the gentle art of screen checking!

7. Deleating in camera

Do not delete in camera… There are many good reasons for this…

  • Constant deleting shortens the life of your memory card – only ever format the card.
  • Unless very experienced you are probably not qualified to say if a shot is good or bad.
  • You cannot possibly tell if an image is good enough in the low resolution of a camera screen.
  • As your ‘eye’ develops you will change your idea of what is a ‘delete’. I have seen an image voted Best-shot-of-the-day but listed as a deleter by the author before the vote.
8. Not looking at the image in full size

There is only one sure test of sharpness, look at the image in full resolution. When you pull the image up on screen it is reduced and sharpened. Expand it to 100% to see it as you took it. Read your software manual to see how.

9. Ignoring the light

Find out all you can about light – all types of light and all sorts of lighting situations. You can find a whole range of resources here… Light and Lighting – Resource pages on Photokonnexion. Your knowledge of light will make you a great photographer if you focus on that alone.

10. Not using a tripod

The best sharpness tool is using a tripod. Never forget your tripod and you will always have sharp images!

For more on this subject and some detail of how to get past these mistakes read: Mistakes beginners make and how to overcome them

Here is a short video with four more great tips for you to take on board…

Mistakes to Avoid as a Beginner Photographer

startphotography channel External link - opens new tab/page

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By Damon Guy (author and editor)

Netkonnexion

Damon Guy (Netkonnexion)

Damon is managing editor of Photokonnexion.com with professional experience in photography, writing, image libraries, and computing. He is also an experienced, webmaster and a trained teacher. Damon runs regular training for digital photographers who are just starting out.
See also: Editors ‘Bio’
By Damon Guy :: Profile on Google+

Five great ways to improve your photography

I heart Photokonnexion

The top five posts from 2012

In our first year as a website we learned a lot about our readers and worked hard to provide great content for you. We did some research and identified the most read posts of the year.

Number five

Light is the most important component of our work as photographers…
Six things to know about light.
[Also check out other Light and Lighting resources].

Number four

Composition was an important theme through the year. Simple ideas are the best. This post captured a consistent readership…
The Rule of Odds – Uneven Composition

Number three

This is a great post from my friend Steve Maidwell (imageinnation.co.uk). As a contributing author he made a hit with our readers. He’s promised another post soon…
Creating a Fake Smoke Effect

Number two

I made a personal recommendation for two ideal Christmas presents. They really went down well. These would make great gifts to yourself too…
Two great Christmas gift ideas for photographers

And the top post of the year:

Number one

Street photography has been a consistent success on Photokonnexion. The most viewed post in 2012…
Forty six quick street photography tips


By Damon Guy (author and editor)

Netkonnexion

Damon Guy (Netkonnexion)

Damon is managing editor of Photokonnexion.com with professional experience in photography, writing, image libraries, and computing. He is also an experienced, webmaster and a trained teacher. Damon runs regular training for digital photographers who are just starting out.
See also: Editors ‘Bio’
By Damon Guy :: Profile on Google+

Photography phactoids – starting today…

Photography phactoid number 001

Starting today we are going to be running a regular series of quick facts for photographers. The idea is to ensure we have some quick and easy posts for you to learn something at a glance. Today is the first one. Please let us know what you think…

What is a zoom flash?

A Zoom flash is a form of flash unit where the light source in the flash can be drawn further back into the body of the flash housing. As it recedes the beam of light from the flash is narrowed by the sides of the housing. This focussing of the beam tends to make the light look hard rather than soft.


By Damon Guy (author and editor)

Netkonnexion

Damon Guy (Netkonnexion)

Damon is managing editor of Photokonnexion.com with professional experience in photography, writing, image libraries, and computing. He is also an experienced, webmaster and a trained teacher. Damon runs regular training for digital photographers who are just starting out.
See also: Editors ‘Bio’
By Damon Guy :: Profile on Google+

Get your settings right with all file types

File-formats and settings

The power of the file format you use…

Most photographers don’t think about settings and file formats when starting. First off, most people just want to take pictures. Down the road you need to think about what you are doing more carefully. You will need to get into RAW processing to overcome the shortcomings (but also, see my comment after this article)

File formats

When you think about settings and file formats it appears very technical. It’s not easy to work out what you need to know. Here are the basics. There are two in-camera file types for photographers…

  • RAW = a file type for capturing all the data from your camera, but which needs developing (post processing) after the file is downloaded. There are many manufacturer-specific versions of the RAW format.
  • *.jpg = a specific file type created in-camera from a RAW file. It is processed by the camera. The *.jpg format was originally designed only for transmitting and displaying files. It is extremely limited for post processing and easily degraded.

Both file types are useful for certain things. The RAW format is ultimately the most useful for photographers because it is so flexible. It allows you to develop the image you want from the picture you have taken. The *.jpg file on the other hand is processed for you, in a limited auto-processing system over which you have little control. It is confusing for beginners because *.jpg files create reasonably good images. But it is difficult to make them do what you intend. Beginners eventually find they cannot create the excellent images that RAW users produce. Nevertheless, starters use *.jpg because they don’t understand RAW and processing – they are stuck without help.

The processing is already done for *.jpg files by the time they are downloaded. Most beginners think they have something special when they get a great image straight out of the camera. Actually they are getting something processed according to someone else’s ideas. So it is not entirely their creation.

How do you break out of this situation?

The easiest way is to do a course or join a club or both. Then you can gain the experience and techniques you need to learn while having fun with others who share your interests. There are lots of courses and clubs around. More specifically you will have three goals. You need to learn how to…

  • Control your camera to get the picture you want.
  • Do post processing to produce great images.
  • See great scenes and compose them to create great images.
Along the way…

At some point every aspiring photographer is told, “why not try moving to RAW, that format gives you greater control over your processing”. This is true and a worthwhile pursuit.

What most beginners also hear along the way is something like this… “It is easier to shoot in RAW because you don’t need to worry about your settings so much”. “You can sort it out in post processing”.

This whole “sort it out later” attitude is a recipe for disaster. Here is my reasoning…
Most beginners:

  • Have an underdeveloped sense of colour.
  • Are not sensitive to light intensity or brightness variations.
  • Have an underdeveloped sense of the quality of light.

And crucially…

  • Cannot properly remember the colours shades, tones and brightness levels at a scene until they can start the post processing hours or days later.

The result is that during processing colours, brightnesses, tones and shades get over/under processed owing to no reference point. The resultant image is often a long way from reality. Incidentally, as your eye/mind system develops the “photographers eye” you begin to remember these details much more.

I urge you to cultivate the habit of fine control of your camera. Every shot, or at least every set of similar shots, should be set up individually. Be obsessive about it. Then, when you get your work into the computer, your post processing has a realistic starting point. It is easier, and more realistic, to process a picture that starts out very close to your intended image.

There is another reason to be obsessive and accurate about controlling settings from the start. Bad habits are really, really difficult to break. If you get into the habit of sloppy settings from the start you will almost certainly be a lazy photographer. I can assure you that will condemn you to many hours in front of the computer doing menial development tasks. It is much easier to get it right in-camera from the start. Then you can slightly tweak it later. Breaking a sloppy habit to get fine control of your camera later is a long, hard road.

Professional photographers are obsessive about getting the settings right. They know that the difference between an amateur and a professional is getting EXACTLY the image they want. And, they know they will not get that exact image by being sloppy. Precise, accurate and pre-set control is the name of the game if you want to create sharp, and realistic images.

So, forget about ‘rescuing images later’. Do your photography correctly from the start and do it using RAW files.

Addendum:
It is important to consider the tools you work with. If your camera does not offer the opportunity to save RAW files you have to work with what you have got. Nothing wrong with that. It is worth reading my comment after this article.


By Damon Guy (author and editor)

Netkonnexion

Damon Guy (Netkonnexion)

Damon is managing editor of Photokonnexion.com with professional experience in photography, writing, image libraries, and computing. He is also an experienced, webmaster and a trained teacher. Damon runs regular training for digital photographers who are just starting out.
See also: Editors ‘Bio’
By Damon Guy :: Profile on Google+

A quick look at negative space

Paraglider

The paraglider is defined by the space around about. The strong open space makes a statement about freedom and openness.

Negative space offers an opportunity.

The use of space in a photo is an interesting way to open up a picture and to emphasise the importance of the main subject. In this post we are going to examine use of negative space.

What is negative space

In simple terms negative space is everything in the picture that is not a subject. Space around and between the subject(s) is negative space. However, in most pictures the space around and between pictures is not a strong compositional element. The background and the other objects in a picture form part of the perspective of the picture as well as the in-fill so while they are important the negative space is not a significant compositional feature.

Power

Negative space is at its most powerful as a major compositional element in the photograph, perhaps the most important element. In the picture above the paraglider is defined by the surrounding open space. The sense of openness and freedom is conveyed by the negative space. The image conveys is intended to show the elegance of the flight, the emptiness of the negative space and the balance between them. Simple images like this provide a way to draw the viewer into the picture through the use of the space.

Definition

One of the most obvious uses of negative space is create a defining part of the subjects space or positive space. In the image below the building and the tree represent a pair of opposing geometries.

The Gherkin building - City of London, UK

The Gherkin building – City of London, UK
The negative space (sky) between the tree and building creates a definition, highlighting the very different edges of each of the positive spaces.

The one is well defined in its geometric format of windows (the Gherkin building in London) and curves. On the other hand the tree represents a chaotic, irregular, almost disorganised entity. The negative space between them creates a definition of both and refreshes the eye when moving back and forth. The counterpoint is defined by the negative space.

Using negative space as the subject

It seems funny to use ‘nothing’ as a subject. Nevertheless, the absence of something is still meaningful. In the next photograph the subject is actually negative space – albeit of a relatively small size…

Arrow Slot - Bodium Castle

Arrow Slot – Bodium Castle
The existence of the slot is defined not by the brickwork, but by the intense blackness of the arrow slot.

As you can see the power in this image is in the deep black of the arrow slot in the wall, off-set nicely by the textures in the hand-cut stonework. It is that deep blackness that, in this case defines the slot.

As an additional point, the opposite is true too. The positive space can define the negative space in a picture. When you look at the picture of the vase you will see the main vase to start with. However, stare at the image long enough and the stem of the vase becomes two faces staring at each other closely. The positive space of the vase has acted to define the negative space around the outside of the vase where you can see the faces.

Rubins Vase - a study of the negative space created by the vase stem.

• Rubins Vase • Vs study of the negative space created by the vase stem.
Click image to view large
• Rubins Vase • By Wikipedia External link - opens new tab/page

Negative space can be used in powerful ways. In essence, it is a great way to draw the eye of your viewer into the picture.

New definitions – Photographic Glossary

Two new definitions have been published.

The new definitions are compositional elements of the picture. They will help an understand of the way to use space. These definitions are complementary to each other in a photograph. They are Negative Space, and Positive space.

Read the definition for Negative Space.

Read the definition for Positive Space.

Simple explanations of colour depth and aspect ratio

Digital cameras have their own screens.

The colour depth of the camera screen and the aspect ratio of the final picture are both important aspects of the final image. You have to judge what a picture looks like before you shoot it. Is it going to be the same after the shot?

The screen on your camera is an indication of what the image will look like. It is not an accurate representation. In order to understand the background to this statement you will be able get more information from “Of video graphics and cameras”.

Here is a little background to help you understand the idea of colour depth and aspect ratio.

Colour depth

This is the levels of colour that are found in a graphics display. Not just how many possible variations of Red, Green, Blue, (RGB) but also the full range of derivative colours and the tonal variations and brightnesses available. Colour depth involves a huge number of colours. Read more about colour depth.

Aspect Ratio

Throughout the history of film, television, graphics and images through the last century aspect ratio has been of importance. The term is used to describe the shape of the screen. Historically a large number of formats for screen shape have been established. Aspect ratio is the subject of a full article in the Photokonnexion Photographic Glossary.